How do I choose developer volume?

Answered by James Kissner

Choosing the right developer volume for your hair coloring needs is crucial to achieve the desired results. The developer volume determines how much lift or lightening power the hair color will have. It is essential to select the appropriate developer volume based on the level of lift you want to achieve.

For level-on-level coloring, where you want to maintain the current level of your hair color or for toning blonde highlights without further lightening, a 10 Volume developer is the ideal choice. This developer volume is gentle and does not provide much lift, making it suitable for depositing color or toning without causing significant changes to your hair’s natural level.

If you wish to lighten your hair by 1-2 levels, a 20 Volume developer is recommended. This developer volume provides moderate lift and is commonly used for subtle changes in hair color. It is suitable for covering gray hair or achieving a slightly lighter shade.

For a more noticeable lift of 2-3 levels, a 30 Volume developer is appropriate. This developer volume is stronger and can lighten your hair more effectively. It is commonly used when you want to achieve a significant change in hair color or when covering darker shades.

It is important to note that any lift higher than 3 levels is best achieved by using bleach first, followed by coloring. Bleach is a powerful lightening agent and should be used when you want to achieve a dramatic change in hair color or when going from dark to light.

When choosing a developer volume, it is crucial to consider the health and condition of your hair. Higher developer volumes can be more damaging to the hair, so it’s important to assess the hair’s strength and elasticity before proceeding. If your hair is already damaged or fragile, it is recommended to choose a lower developer volume or consult with a professional hair colorist.

Personal experience: I have naturally dark brown hair and wanted to achieve a light caramel shade. After consulting with a hair colorist, she recommended using a 30 Volume developer to lift my hair to the desired level. However, she also advised me to undergo a deep conditioning treatment prior to the coloring process to ensure my hair’s health and minimize damage. The result was a beautiful caramel shade that perfectly complemented my skin tone.

Choosing the right developer volume is crucial for achieving your desired hair color. Consider the level of lift you want, the condition of your hair, and when necessary, consult with a professional to ensure the best outcome.